When buying a speaker, you generally only need to look at these few indicators.
The first is the rated power, which refers to the power at which the speaker can work normally for a long time. What does a higher power represent?
A simple understanding is that it's loud. Of course, this also needs to be combined with the sensitivity indicator that we are about to talk about. After seeing the power of this speaker, you can roughly know in a room of what size it can be used. However, more and more audio devices no longer mark the rated power but suggest amplifier power instead. Actually, this is a more user-friendly way, so that we can be clearer about what power of amplifier we should match. The maximum value of this suggested amplifier power, if you take 20% or 30% off, is basically the rated power of this speaker. There is a trick in power. That is, some speakers only mark the peak power but not the rated power. The peak power is meaningless, which is a typical dishonest practice.
The second sensitivity, the sensitivity index represents how easy or difficult it is to drive this speaker. If you fix the volume of the amplifier, the higher the sensitivity of the speaker, the louder the sound will be, which is what we often say is easier to drive. Generally speaking, speakers with a sensitivity of 90DB or above are considered high-sensitivity speakers. From now on, don't judge whether a speaker is easy to drive by its size or weight, just look at the sensitivity. Under normal circumstances, large speakers have higher sensitivity than small ones, so generally speaking, large speakers are easier to drive. However, high sensitivity does not mean good sound quality. Being easy to drive and having good sound are two different things
The third frequency response range tells us how low the low frequency and how high the high frequency this speaker can produce. Suppose a speaker has a frequency response range of 50Hz to 20,000Hz, which means it can produce sounds from 50Hz to 20,000Hz. Generally, we hope that the frequency response range is as wide as possible, that is, what is usually said to have deep low-frequency submergence and good high-frequency extension. However, just because a speaker can produce this low frequency doesn't mean it can do it well. What if it can only produce a very small sound? So the catch is here, in the frequency response range, there should be parentheses with ±3DB to be meaningful, which represents that the volume of each frequency band in the entire range is still acceptable. If it is ±10DB, then it doesn't mean much.
The fourth impedance, this is an objective parameter of the speaker, which does not represent the quality of the speaker at all. Generally, there are several types such as 8Ω, 6Ω, 4Ω, and 2Ω.
Knowing this value is just for matching with the amplifier. For example, if your speaker's impedance is 8 ohms and the power is 100 watts, then you need to see what the power of your amplifier is at 8 ohms to see if the two match. Also, if your speaker is 2 ohms, of course, such speakers are rare, you need to see if your amplifier supports 2 ohms, as some amplifiers do not support connecting to 2-ohm speakers. The above four indicators are marked on every speaker. Understanding these parameters? You can roughly understand the constitution of this speaker, but you can't judge whether this speaker sounds good. Speakers are the most typical example of audio equipment that cannot be purchased by just looking at the parameters.
